NEWS # 013
Hi everyone!
I stop at Nick's on the way home and they are all wasted but still
drinking!! I go home to chill, read Spanish and sleep. Surf later. Susanna
comes home at 7.00 pm to shower and goes out again.
The next few days are much the same and I get plenty of good surf, food and
a few beers too.
On Thursday I'm up at 5.45am as there is a swell coming. The surf is epic
and is head high to double overhead in the sets. I see one guy get large
barrel and get covered up lots myself with most rides being two hundred
yards or more. It is very busy and I get bombed many times after taking off
really deep on waves I would normally have left.
Get caught inside the break
several times and almost have to do the Montanita rock dance on a few
occasions!!! Chris, a guy from Oxford who now lives in our hostel is not so
lucky and bounces off the reef necessitating several stitches in his foot.
Thankfully, one of the surfers is a doctor and does it there and then. I
meet Katherine, an air hostess from Peru, and we arrange to go out on Friday.
The next morning we are having breakfast when the police arrive. They
wear combats and carry big guns and are very unsettling, to put it mildly. In Ecuador, you are supposed to have ID at all times and we
don't. Thankfully two people on the next table do and the police move on. Heavy sigh of relief all round!!
I follow the same routine and surf, sleep and eat. In the evening, I meet up with two Americans, Doug and Mark and my friend
Katherine. We eat and have some beers. We then watch some crazy fire eaters
and jugglers and head off the the Mahalo bar for a Reggae party.
The bar is
upstairs and appears suspended on bamboo stilts. The music is very loud and
the whole structure moves up and down about six inches as we dance! We drink
Caiparenia too.
At one point the party almost stops due to a dreadful smell and we find it
comes from the sewage lorry emptying the sewer across the road. Several
people throw their drinks at the driver!!
I walk Katherine home and agree to go and see her in Lima. I go back to the
party and dance some more, and finally go home at 2.00am.
On Saturday there is little surf so I go up the coast in search of more
spots and to mail.
Seeya,
Halesy
